Photos, filters, and flattering angles can mask the true quality of a pearl. How can you tell whether a pearl will sparkle on arrival or disappoint when you inspect it up close?
This guide explains how to identify core qualities and read photographic cues for colour, lustre, and scale, then shows simple hands-on checks and tests that reveal surface and nacre characteristics. A final purchase checklist helps you spot red flags, verify documentation, and plan basic care so you buy with confidence.
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Identify core pearl qualities
Start by assessing lustre and surface: in photos look for sharp, mirror-like reflections, and in person tilt the pearl under diffuse light to see how clearly it reflects a window or your finger. Use macro images or a 10x loupe to reveal pits, bumps, and growth lines, and record the number, size, and depth of blemishes on the visible hemisphere because a few tiny flaws are typical but large or deep blemishes affect appearance and durability. To check shape and symmetry, photograph the pearl against a ruler or grid and rotate it on a soft surface to confirm roundness and axis, noting whether the outline and rotation match expectations for the intended style.
Capture colour, overtone, and orient under neutral, daylight-balanced light and view the pearl from several angles to separate the base colour from any overtone. Treat a subtle, shifting sheen as evidence of internal nacre structure rather than surface dye, and look for colour changes that follow the curve of the surface. Estimate nacre thickness by examining drill holes, the bead edge, or a broken section in close-up, since thin nacre may reveal a nucleus or concentric ring. When judging strands or matched pairs, compare size, colour, lustre, and surface across multiple photos or place items side by side in person to assess consistency and acceptability for your intended use.
Choose a matched freshwater pearl strand for consistent lustre
Image by Mari Korz on Pexels
Assess pearls from photographs
Request high-resolution, well-lit photos and compare highlights and reflections; sharp, mirror-like specular highlights and crisp reflections of surrounding objects indicate strong lustre and a thick nacre layer, while diffuse, muted highlights suggest lower lustre or a surface coating. Insist on macro shots at full resolution with a scale reference, such as a ruler or coin, then zoom in to inspect surface texture for pits, bumps, or concentric growth lines that reveal surface flaws or natural character. Watch for abrupt colour changes at magnification around drill holes, because sudden shifts often indicate filled holes, paint, or coating rather than uniform nacre.
Ask for views on neutral dark and light backgrounds and from multiple angles to reveal overtone, orient, and iridescence; subtle colour shifts as you tilt the pearl point to natural nacre structure, whereas a flat, uniform colour across angles can signal dye or treatment. Request photos showing the pearl in context, such as on a strand or paired with its mate, to assess shape, symmetry, and consistency; consistent roundness and matched sizes across images support a well graded set, while axis irregularities and varied dimensions point to baroque or mismatched pearls. Require close-ups of drill holes and mountings to evaluate nacre thickness and look for repair signs. Exposed bright cores, re-drilling marks, glue residue, or uneven paint near the hole provide clear visual evidence of bead nucleation, reseating, or surface treatments.
View close-ups of this 18 inch freshwater grey pearl strand
Image by Paula Bustillos on Unsplash
Analyse colour, lustre, and scale in images
Ask for standardised photos shot against a neutral background with diffuse lighting, a grey card for white balance, and a coin or ruler for scale, and supply multiple angles including head-on and oblique views to reveal lustre, orient, and surface texture. Provide high-resolution close-ups so you can inspect for pits, nacre chips, drill-hole wear, and residue, and judge lustre by the sharpness of reflected highlights. Compare reflection clarity across pearls to assess consistency of nacre and finish. For strands, include a straight-held shot showing gradation, spacing, and uniformity of shape and size.
Assess colour by comparing each pearl to a neutral reference and to the others, noting body colour, overtone, and orient, and ask for unedited files or RAW images so you can correct white balance on a calibrated screen. Document scale and shape with a ruler shot and a photo beside a commonly sized object, and request images under different lighting to expose subtler surface features. Avoid photographic pitfalls: flash can wash out lustre, digital sharpening can hide fine blemishes, and polarised or coloured light can alter apparent colour.
Inspect AAA freshwater bracelet for lustre, colour, and nacre.
Image by Alina Vilchenko on Pexels
Perform hands-on checks and simple tests
Rotate the pearl under bright, diffused light and watch the reflections; sharp, mirror-like highlights and a clear image of surrounding objects indicate strong lustre, while a chalky sheen or blurred highlights point to thin nacre or a surface coating. Examine the pearl at about 10x magnification, focusing on surface texture and the drill hole, since fine growth lines, tiny pits, and concentric layering support natural nacre, whereas raised mould seams, uniform bubbles, chipped coating at the hole, or a perfectly featureless surface suggest imitation or re-coating. Pay attention to how the drill hole transitions to the pearl body, because a clean, layered edge favours authenticity and an abrupt or flaky edge often betrays treatment or a non-nacre core.
Gently rub the pearl across the edge of your front tooth to test texture, taking care not to bite; a faintly gritty sensation comes from true nacre, while a glassy, slick feel indicates a bead, heavy coating, or plastic. Hold the pearl between finger and thumb to note temperature and heft, as genuine nacre feels cool initially and has a satisfying density for its size, whereas plastic or hollow-core beads warm quickly and feel unusually light. For strands, compare diameter variation, shape, and colour overtones under the same light, inspect knots for tightness and clean finishes, and check that pearls sit evenly when draped, because consistent size, shape, and secure, evenly spaced knots indicate careful selection and finishing. Combine visual cues and tactile tests to build a consistent picture rather than relying on any single indicator.
Test lustre with a genuine freshwater grey pearl bracelet
Image by Jeppe Mønster on Unsplash
Apply a final purchase checklist for red flags, documentation, and care
Begin by requesting high-resolution macro photos from several angles, including a neutral white card and a scale, and assess lustre by looking for mirror-like reflections and crisp highlights while watching for a cloudy, satiny sheen or visible edges that can signal thin nacre or a surface coating. In person, use a 10x loupe and rotate each pearl under directional light to reveal orient, overtones, and growth rings, noting that small natural pits are acceptable, while deep pits, chips, or peeling suggest significant damage or treatment. Measure diameter and record shape with callipers, then lay pearls side by side to check size, shape, and colour consistency, because well-sorted strands show smooth gradation and uniform spacing. Spot glued repairs, uneven drill holes, or mismatched spacing, which indicate poor sorting or past repair.
Ask for independent documentation such as a gem lab report or X-ray that states nacre thickness, presence of a bead nucleus, species, and any treatments, and confirm provenance and a clear return policy for vintage or second-hand pieces. Before paying, inspect settings and clasps, verify drill-hole integrity, and confirm how the item was stored and cleaned so you can wipe pearls after wear, store them separately in soft fabric, and avoid solvents and cosmetics. Arrange regular restringing based on wear, and keep documentation with the piece to support future appraisal or resale.
Pearl quality combines visible lustre, consistent colour and scale, and intact nacre, which you can evaluate by reading photographic cues and confirming them with simple hands-on checks. Sharp reflections, uniform overtone across angles, clear drill-hole edges, and subtle growth lines provide tangible evidence to separate well-made natural nacre from coated, filled, or imitation pieces.
Use the photographic checklist, magnified inspection steps, and the purchase checklist described above to compare items, document concerns, and request independent reports when needed. Doing so leaves you equipped to buy with confidence, spot red flags early, and care for pearls so their lustre endures.